Threads of Belonging
LGBTQ+ Western aims to increase access to gender-affirming clothing with free rack
Story and photo by Lauren Eydt
Pride flags aren't an uncommon sight at Western Washington University. But on the seventh floor of the Viking Union, the number of rainbows is extravagant. The walls are covered with posters and flags. Outside, students and buses bustle about, but this room is calm, quiet and safe. The lounge is bright and warm, with rainbow pillows on a small gray couch and a scattering of office chairs. A mini fridge sits to the side and plants dot the windowsill. Sunlight leaks through the big windows overlooking High Street.
Tucked in the corner of the room is an unassuming clothing rack. Pairs of shoes sit under the array of clothes on hangers with a paper sign taped to the top that reads “free clothes.”
The clothing rack, located in the LGBTQ+ Lounge in room 722 of the VU, is there to provide gender-affirming clothing for trans and non-binary students.
“For people who are transitioning, it can be really hard to go to a store to try clothes on without feeling dysphoric,” said JoeHahn, the school's LGBTQ+ Center Director.
Having free access to gender-affirming clothing helps provide a basic need for students who may not be comfortable or can’t afford to shop elsewhere. This resource gives students a safe space to try clothes on and take what they need at no cost.
The lounge is run by LGBTQ+ Western, a holistic support service that provides resources, advocacy and events for primarily LGBTQ+ students, but provides support for all students, staff and faculty.
“We don't discriminate,” JoeHahn said. “And often we don’t ask what people's identities are. So if they don't want to come out yet, that's fine. We’ll totally offer support.”
The program supports students navigating gender and sexuality experiences and works with other groups on campus such as the gender-affirming care team and the bias response team to provide support for students campus-wide.
The free clothing resource was originally created and run by the Associated Student Career Resource Center and offered free clothing to students from the closet in their office space. The Associated Student Career Resource Center was absorbed by LGBTQ+ Western when the latter was started in 2018. They then expanded the closet into a clothing rack in the LGBTQ+ Lounge, allowing the rack to stay open for longer hours. The clothing provided is donated by faculty, students and occasionally club initiatives.
Tilly Lundstrom is an undeclared first-year student at Western with an interest in Women, Gender and Sexuality Studies (WGSS). They are non-binary, and have faced challenges with their expression through clothing. Growing up in Squim, Wash., a small town located on the Olympic Peninsula, did not give them much opportunity to explore their identity.
“It was just hard to feel like I fit in someplace, especially with my gender identity. And it was hard trying to figure out how I wanted to express myself because I thought I could only be a girl. I didn't know that there were other options,” Lundstrom said.
Their first experience with clothing-related gender euphoria was during theater in elementary school.
“One time I had to dress up as a man and I was like, ‘wow, I feel really cool in this suit. That's really weird, I’ve never worn a suit before and I feel like I look really awesome,’” Lundstrom said.
After moving to Bellingham for school, Lundstrom was able to meet other queer people and learn about opportunities they weren’t previously aware of. They learned about the clothing rack through LGBTQ+ Western’s Instagram and decided to check it out.
“I figured I probably wouldn't be able to find anything, but you never know,” Lundstrom said. “I found a binder that fits me perfectly.”
Lundstrom had purchased binders previously, but none of them fit, and trying different brands to find a fit was expensive.
“When I put on the binder, I started crying. Because it's just so amazing to be able to wear something that you feel comfortable in, that you feel like you can really express yourself with,” Lundstrom said.
LGBTQ+ Western is providing the chance for students to feel secure and confident in clothes that align with their identity.
“I know what it's like to be in a terrible small town with people that don't tell you the opportunities you have,” Lundstrom said, “And everybody deserves to be able to express themselves the way that they want to.”
Despite the positive impacts of gender-affirming clothing, dressing without regard for gender norms has a long history of criminalization.
In the 19th century, cities across the U.S. passed laws making it a crime to cross-dress in public. The first was St. Louis, MO, in 1843, followed by over 40 cities before the end of the century, according to an article by Jacobin.
“These regulations that are regulating gender are really focusing on clothing as the key indicator of gender that they're regulating. We don't see the same level of scrutiny focused on other aspects,” said Josh Cerretti, a Western professor of history and WGSS.
These regulations were enforced in many places until the 1970s and were used to harass gender non-conforming individuals. During this time, thousands of people were arrested under these laws, sometimes punished with fines, jail time or even psychiatric institutionalization.
Activists in these communities began to speak out about these regulations in the 1960s with protests and the formation of organizations providing support and resources. Most of these laws fell out of use, although there are no federal protections for cross-dressing.
“Now we're at a place where it's really exciting that we have these resources that help people actually get the clothes that they need to be themselves in public,” Cerretti said. But at the same time, there is still backlash and new hurdles for these legal struggles.
Today, the importance of gender-affirming clothing and the right to expression is just as important. Gender-affirming care encompasses a range of support, including access to clothing to affirm an individual’s gender identity. This care is crucial for the safety and well-being of queer and trans communities to provide the support and resources they need to live authentically and free from discrimination.
“It's one thing to have the right in the abstract to live your gender, to be embodied the way you want to see. It's another thing to have access to the resources to do that,” Cerretti said, “But getting actual access to the material things you need is often a challenge in a capitalist society in a place with a lot of scarcity.”
For many students, the right to express their gender may be limited by their economic power and the resources available to them. Having a resource like the LGBTQ+ Western clothing closet can bridge that gap and give students the possibility to implement how they practically want to live their lives.
LGBTQ+ Western’s free clothing rack stands as a beacon of support and inclusivity for trans and non-binary students. This initiative, championed by the work of students, staff and faculty who recognized the need for and built this resource from scratch, provides essential gender-affirming care to students while fostering an inclusive and welcoming environment for all individuals to explore and express their identities.
As you embark on your spring cleaning this season and think about donating your clothes to Goodwill, consider donating to the LGBTQ+ clothing closet instead. And for those interested in obtaining articles to confirm and express your gender, a visit to the LGBTQ+ Lounge might just uncover something extraordinary.